O is for Oliana

Hola again. Oh my goodness, the climbing can’t get much better than this, can it? I am in love with the routes here in Oliana. For the last three weeks I have been throwing myself whole heartedly at a route called Fish Eye (8c). It’s the hardest route I have tried to date and I am completely immersed in the process of gradually working out the individual moves and lately linking long sections. I knew from the start that the probability of sending this route in the time that I had would be slim, take out rainy days, seepage etc and that narrows the odds even further. But it didn’t matter, if we did everything based on the outcome well, why would we bother sometimes? It’s the process that counts. All I hoped to achieve by attempting something so hard was to see what it was like to get on an 8c. What I learnt is simply that 8c is somewhat harder than an 8b+, funny that, what else should I expect? But also that going up a grade doesn’t necessarily mean that it’s an impassable barrier, quite the opposite, now with renewed energy and belief in my climbing, 8c seems even more possible than ever.

Fish Eye is not one of the distinctive tufa lines here at Oliana but what it lacks in aesthetics it makes up for in the action. It climbs incredibly well and its 60-metres take in very steep ground and finishes off with a super sustained headwall. I was inspired to try this route after seeing a video of Daila Ojeda making the first female ascent. And for me, on my second last day of the trip I got through the harder cruxes down low and climbed within a few moves from the end. Oh well it was not to be this time, I tried my hardest , I learnt a lot, my climbing has progressed in leaps and bounds and above all I am so psyched about taking my climbing to the next level.

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One Comment

  1. Posted 4 March 2012 at 7:32 pm by Lee Wood | Permalink

    So this is your project? very impressive. Another world from our grade 7 bashing. I’ll look out for news of completion.

    Lee & friends, your neighbours at Camping Noguera.

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