Here’s just a quick update on my crack project in the Grose Valley which I talked about previously. After a long spell from the route I finally got back on it two weeks ago. I was very pleased to send the route on my first day back on it and on my first redpoint attempt; the first pitch all on pre-placed gear. I had always intended to do this route in good style, for me that meant placing all gear on lead. And so, last weekend I returned to the crack and that’s exactly what I did; lead the route placing all the gear during my actual ascent. It’s certainly harder this way and definitely more satisfying but the point was to push myself on trad and do something I hadn’t done before.
As I said previously, “It may not present such a hard ‘tick’ to some but for me it was a personal challenge”. In the process of projecting this route I have achieved my goals. I wanted to become a more rounded climber particularly in trad and this was a great start. I needed to get more comfortable placing gear in strenuous positions, trusting these placements and then being prepared to take big whippers on the gear. I ticked all of those boxes, got scared, got scratched up (let’s say that my hand modeling days are over) but thoroughly enjoyed the learning process.
A few months ago, when I did the first ascent of this route (with one fall) I decided to call the route ORANGE JAM. It stands for Orsum Rock And Nice Gear Everywhere Just Ask Michael, but not to be. As for the grade, I think the first pitch (28m) is solid 27 placing gear on lead and the second pitch (36m) is about grade 19. It’s a beautiful route in a stunning location. I wish there were more like it.
Here’s a look at the beautiful crack.
Here’s a photo of the initial rack that I took down to try the route. In the end I used way less gear than this. For anyone wanting to repeat this route it starts in the corner just right of Slipstream (two new lower pitches to Slipstream have been added since the 2010 guidebook). And as you can see, there are many micro cams on my rack and you will require lots of these for the critical placements low down on the route.
Thank you Climb On for soothing my hands in between attempts.
